Island Peak aka Imja Tse (6,189 meters) is one of the most popular trekking peaks in Nepal situated at the heart of the Everest region. It offers an incredible mountaineering […]
Island Peak aka Imja Tse (6,189 meters) is one of the most popular trekking peaks in Nepal situated at the heart of the Everest region. It offers an incredible mountaineering experience to travelers who are looking for adventures to push their limits. Island Peak Climbing is suitable for both experienced trekkers and those new to mountaineering. While the climb requires the knowledge of using climbing equipment such as ropes, crampons, and ice axes, Island Peak is not technically a difficult peak to climb. Therefore, it is a perfect choice for climbers looking to take their first steps in the world of peak climbing in Nepal and the perfect milestone for trekkers looking to experience high-altitude climbing.
The local name for the peak in the Sherpa language is Imja Tse which means “the island in a glacial sea”. Therefore, the peak gets its name because it accurately looks like an island amidst a sea of glaciers when viewed from above. Situated deep within the Chukkung valley, this stunning peak looks like an island, obscured on both sides by the immense Lhotse/Nuptse South Wall to the north and Baruntse to the south.
The itinerary for Island Peak Climbing is generally about two weeks long and the journey begins with a scenic flight from Kathmandu to Lukla. From Lukla, we will be heading to Phakding and then follow the Everest trekking trail towards the famous Namche Bazaar which is also the gateway to the Everest region. Namche is an important stop for acclimatization during our trek because we will be trekking towards higher elevations in the upcoming days from here. Thus, the Island Peak Itinerary mostly has two nights here to adjust to the altitude while exploring the village and visiting the local market.
After leaving Namche, the trail leads us through the Khumbu Valley passing beautiful villages like Tengboche and Dingboche with their incredible views of Everest ranges including Ama Dablam and the mighty Everest. We will then make our way towards Chhukung, a small settlement in the Imja Valley which is perfect for further acclimatization before heading to Island Peak Base Camp.
From Chhukung, the real adventure of our journey begins. We will be trekking to Island Peak Base Camp where we will undergo the climbing preparation. From here, the summit push starts early the next morning. The route to the summit involves crossing glaciers, using ropes, and climbing steep snow slopes so we have to be extra prepared at the base camp. The Nepal Mountain Guide crew will also provide you with equipment usage training at the Island Peak Base Camp to ensure a safe and successful ascent.
We will be heading towards our ultimate destination and our primary goal, Island Peak Summit, which is also the peak that Edmund Hillary and Sherpa Tenzing climbed in 1953 as a training peak before climbing Mt. Everest. Reaching the summit of Island Peak at 6,189 meters is a thrilling moment with spectacular views of Lhotse, Nuptse, and other Himalayan giants surrounding you. After celebrating the success of reaching our ultimate destination i.e. the Island Peak Summit, we will descend back to base camp and rest and relax.
Following the climb, the trail takes us back down through the villages of Dingboche, Tengboche, and finally Namche Bazaar. The trek ends with a flight from Lukla back to Kathmandu, with the remarkable memories of the Island Peak adventure.
Island Peak is located within Sagarmatha National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site that protects the Khumbu region’s unique flora and fauna including rare and extinct wildlife like musk deer, snow leopards, and Himalayan tahr. Therefore, the Sagarmatha National Park Permit is a must to trek in the Everest region of Nepal. And since it is a trekking peak managed by the Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA), a peak climbing permit from the NMA is also required to reach the Island Peak Summit. Whereas, other permits like Khumbu Pasang Lhamu Rural Municipality Tax and TIMS card are also essential for Island Peak Climbing. We at Nepal Mountain Guide will be handling all the paperwork and procedures for the permits and operation before embarking on the trail.
The best time to climb Island Peak is during the spring (March to May) and autumn (September to November). These seasons offer stable weather conditions, which are crucial for safe climbing. During the Spring, the temperatures are mild ranging from 10°C to 15°C at lower altitudes, while higher elevations can see temperatures drop to -10°C. Spring also brings blooming rhododendrons along the trail. On the other hand, Autumn is the most popular season for trekking and peak climbing in Nepal with clear skies and excellent visibility. During this time, the temperatures range from 10°C to 20°C during the day at lower altitudes, but nights at higher camps can be cold, dropping to -15°C. Whereas, Winter and monsoon seasons are not ideal due to heavy snowfall and unstable weather conditions. But for a well-experienced climber, it is also possible to climb Island Peak during winter